Our Materials

Our Promise Feature

We only use the best materials so your white fascias will stay white! We are so confident in our materials they are covered in our 20 year warranty, we even cover their colour fastness. All screws are covered with plastic caps to give a cleaner finish.

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We are 100% committed to providing excellent service from start to finish.

Our Promise

Our Solution Right

We promise that we will tidy up after the work is done leaving your home the way it should be. To treat every home like a show home. Completing the work in a way that will make everybody on your street want Thaxen to replace their gutters.

Lining Concrete Guttering Does Not Work

The only permanent solution to problematic concrete guttering is a FULL REPLACEMENT

Over 85% of our customers have had lining installed 1-3 times over the past 10 years, whilst it is a quick fix, it does not work and while lining companies will tempt you with a “10 year guarantee”, when the lining fails they merely blame this on the concrete gutter expanding and contracting rather than the actual lining itself, which gives them a great get-out of their guarantee.

There are 3 main types of gutter lining that fails:

Bitumen

Bitumen Lining

This is the cheapest of the cheap and usually has a life span of one summer which is when the heat from the sun causes the tar to soften and melt and within 12 months this lining just becomes a mess.

Seamless Aluminium

Seamless Aluminium Lining Problems

Aluminium gutter lining is a flawed method of waterproofing your guttering, predominantly due to the fact it is screwed into place creating leaks in the surface. It may slow down damp, but not eradicate it.

Fibreglass

Fibreglass Lining Problems

The problem with the fibreglass gutter lining is that if you are a semi-detached or terraced house then the neighbours will need to have theirs done as well, otherwise next doors water will run under your gutters.

The Thaxen Way

Our Step by Step Process for Correctly Replacing Failing Concrete Gutters

Step 1

Setup access equipment to the standards of current health and safety regulations

When our installers arrive on site they do a quick risk assessment to evaluate which will be the best access equipment for the job. Our fitters have a wide range of different equipment ranging from Easi-Dec systems to aluminium towers and staging equipment, this means they can get over most obstacles, however should your property need scaffold we use a handful of contractors across the country to ensure our scaffold prices stay competitive.

Step 2

Preparing the work area by moving back the first row of tiles

The first thing the fitters will do is push back or remove some of the tiles along the bottom of the roof, the amount of tiles they move depends on the style of tile you have. This is so the tiles do not get damaged in the process of doing the job but also so we can look at the felt and make sure there is nothing that can cause you further problems once the work is done.

Step 3

Remove any failed linings

Unfortunately most of our customers have had lining between 1 and 3 times over the past 10 years. If it is the bitumen or fibreglass lining the fitters will remove what they can and cut through the rest. The aluminium lining lifts out relatively easy as it is rarely well fixed in the first place.

Step 4

Remove the faceplates from the finlock gutter

There are several different types of concrete guttering, the square shape ones you see here have a separate concrete plate that is lipped onto the front of the gutters. These are very easily removed usually by just pulling on them, some of the more stubborn ones may require a gentle tap from a lump hammer. We have had several customers in the past that have had these plates fall off onto cars and conservatory roofs, obviously this is very serious and if this is happening on your property you will need to have the gutters replaced very quickly.

Step 5

Cutting away the concrete gutters

Once we are at this stage the fitters will use a diamond tipped angle grinder to cut the concrete, we cut the concrete so that it is left with a flush and level base, how far the concrete is cut back will depend upon the tile overhang of your property.

We always leave room for a soffit board to be fitted underneath which makes the work look fantastic once it is finished. Cutting the concrete creates quite a lot of dust however the fitters will clean everything down afterwards.

Step 6

Install the timber face plate

This is a vital part of the job and unfortunately one of the areas where cheaper companies either cut corners or miss out altogether. We use a 6×1″ pressure treated timber faceplate which is attached to the remaining block of concrete guttering, this is fixed onto the concrete with 6″ screws.

The timber has several functions, firstly it gives us a flat solid base to attach our upvc products to, secondly it decreases the chance of condensation caused by cold bridging (this is caused when the cold air hits the fascia and is then transferred through to the concrete block).

Tragically some companies do not install timber at all or they tend to use thin battens that are not treated so over time they will simply rot and malfunction.

Step 7

Attach PVC Soffit underneath the concrete and face plate

We install soffits on all of our installations because they vastly improve the aesthetics of the job, first we attach a starter trim to the underside of the concrete and then we can slot the soffit board into the trim (some companies use sealant which looks messy), this is then screwed into the timber and the screws are then hidden by the fascia board. This step makes the whole job look fantastic once completed and means you wont see any ugly concrete above the window recesses. You can choose between the ridged soffit or the plain, 99% of customers prefer the ridged effect as it looks even better.

Step 8

Installing the high quality fascia board

We use some of the highest quality materials available, this means that our white products stay white and don’t go yellow in colour like some of the cheaper materials do over time. Our fascia board thickness ranges dependant again on the style of property you have and the tile overhang. All of our materials are covered under our 20 year warranty. The fascia boards are pinned to the timber using polypins with plastic caps, this means you wont see any screw heads. Some of the cheaper companies use screws and then put white filler on top of them, this does NOT look good 12 months later.

Step 9

Fitting the new PVC Guttering

Some of the oldest methods are the best, this is why we still use a string line to get the perfect flow on your new guttering. There are 3 styles of guttering to choose from — Half Round, Square Style and Ogee Deepflow. Most of our customers choose to have the Ogee or the Square style as they look more substantial than the round and also have a larger capacity.

Step 10

Joining to your neighbours

One of the most common concerns customers have is “What about my neighbours because we share a downpipe” This is not a problem at all, most of the houses we complete work are semi-detached or terraced and they usually share a downpipe with next door. Where your property meets next doors we will install an end plate, we will then cut the shape of your gutter into this plate so the water can flow as it did before. Where this join is we will clean and dry next doors concrete block which will give us a good surface to join to. We have several methods of sealing your join to next doors gutter and we will choose the correct one for your property whether its coating it with primer and attaching a rubber flashing or alternatively we sometimes use a fibreglass paint. The method we use will depend on which is best for your property and the condition of next doors gutter.

Step 11

Protect your eaves with our essential EPS board

This is something cheaper companies tend to miss however it is an essential asset in ensuring that the customer has no further damp once the job is complete. We not only want to make sure your gutters don’t cause you any more problems but we also want to make sure there is no risk of damp coming in behind the gutters.

The EPS board has 3 functions – Firstly it is fitted underneath the felt, this means that should your felt be ripped and torn along the bottom of the roof, any water that could normally get through will now direct onto the eps board and into the gutter. Secondly, the underside of the EPS board has a gap which allows for ventilation across the roof space, this will help dry out any existing damp but also help to prevent condensation in the loft space in the future. Finally the EPS board lips over the fascia and into the new guttering, this means that when you have heavy wind and rain the dirty water that washes off your tiles goes straight into the gutter without blowing down the front of your property first.

and finally... Step 12

Clean down after the work, the most important part!

Once the work is complete the installers will clean down any dust on the windows and sweep up leaving your house looking clean and tidy. All of the rubbish is usually put into a hippo bag and then collected, however on some occasions we may use a skip or a rubbish removal company if your property is larger than normal.

Give your home the finish it deserves!

Replaced Concrete Gutters
Replaced Concrete Gutters
Replaced Concrete Gutters
Replaced Concrete Gutters
Replaced Concrete Gutters
Brown Coloured Finish
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